Protective styling is a cornerstone of natural hair care, promoting growth, moisture retention, and minimizing manipulation. However, not all styles labeled as "protective" are created equal. In this guide, we'll delve into what truly constitutes a protective style for natural hair, along with essential do's and don'ts to ensure your curls stay healthy and flourishing.
Let's start with a definition.
What is a protective style? It's any hair style that shields your natural curls (and your scalp!) from environmental factors, manipulation, and excessive friction, ultimately promoting length retention and overall hair health.
So what's the problem?
Well, at first glance, lots of styles seem to fit this description. However, the final look alone does not determine whether it protects your hair. Here's a quick guide to determine if a style is protective or not.
It's a protective style if:
It requires low manipulation: Styles that require minimal daily manipulation like loose braids, two or three-strand twists and updos are excellent choices as they can be styled and left alone for extended periods.
It allows you to replenish and retain moisture: Protective styles should allow you to maintain moisture in your hair and should not contribute to excessive dryness. Consider incorporating the L.C.O. (liquid, cream, oil) method before styling to have a strong moisturized base. Use a lightweight leave-in conditioner or a moisturizing spray to keep your hair hydrated. Focus on the ends and edges, as these areas are more susceptible to dryness.
It allows you to access your scalp: Ensure your protective style allows easy access to your scalp for cleansing, moisturizing and gentle massages. A healthy scalp is vital for overall hair health and a scalp that's covered for weeks on end with zero care can spell disaster for your hair. Consider using a targeted applicator or nozzle for applying products directly to your scalp.
It was gently installed: One of the biggest defining factors of a protective style is how it was installed. Be extra gentle when styling yourself or communicate with your stylists about taking extra care to avoid unnecessary stress, strain, pulls and pressure on your hair, scalp and edges. Tight braids or twists can lead to extensive breakage and irreversible conditions like scarring alopecia. A simple rule of thumb: if your scalp is in pain, something is wrong and the longer or more severe the pain, the greater and more long-term the damage.
You're including some variety: Rotate your protective styles to prevent excessive strain on specific areas of your hair. This also helps to avoid boredom and keeps your styling routine versatile.
It protects your edges: The hair along our hairline is extra sensitive and more prone to loss. A protective style should never leave you edge-less. Tight braids or twists can lead to stress on the hairline, causing breakage and potential damage. Opt for styles that provide a secure hold without unnecessary tightness.
Our natural hair is versatile and expressive, and we use it as an art form. There are moments when we may opt for an elaborate style and while every hair style does not need to be protective, we should be clear on what is helping and harming our hair and scalp.
It's NOT a protective style if:
It places high tension on your hair and scalp: Some styles Avoid styles that place excessive tension on your hairline or scalp, such as tight ponytails, tight braids, or tightly installed weaves. Tension can lead to breakage and hair loss.
It leaves your ends exposed: A true protective style should tuck away your ends. Styles that leave your ends exposed are susceptible to dryness, friction and breakage.
It requires frequent Manipulation: Styles that require daily manipulation, constant restyling or excessive combing are not truly protective. The goal is to minimize handling to reduce the risk of breakage.
It involves harsh materials: Avoid materials that can cause friction and breakage, such as cotton scarves or headbands, tight wigs and lace front units, synthetic glues, and low quality, chemical-ridden hair extensions. Opt for satin or silk accessories, looser hair units, and high quality, washed hair extensions to reduce friction and maintain healthy strands.
You're wearing it for over two months: While protective styles are excellent for preserving your natural hair, it's essential not to leave them in for too long. Aim for a style duration that balances protection with your hair's need for care and maintenance. Typically, no longer than 6-8 weeks is a reasonable timeframe for many protective styles.
Understanding what is and isn't a protective style is crucial for maintaining the health and length of your natural hair. By following these do's and don'ts, you'll be well on your way to mastering protective styling and keeping your curls flourishing year-round.